will I be a 5.10 trad climber?

And for the first time, I felt like I was a CLIMBER! That I really COULD lead this 5.8 (Excellent Smithers) and even the 5.10b (sticky Fingers). Wow – had I really come this far? Was I really someone who would be able to call herself a 5.10 female trad climber.

Let’s back up a bit to what brought me to having these feelings…
Monday of this week, MARCH 12th, 2012….the temperature was calling to be 11 Celsius (52 Fahrenheit)…a great climbing friend, Dom, had asked Greg & I if either/or both of us could get out climbing on Monday. We were still on a climbing high from our trip to Red Rocks, and YES YES YES we were both more than keen to take the day to climb our clean, beautiful home granite!

Though the hike in would have been better suited to a crampon’d boot…we were happy to arrive at Simpson wall…as it was bathed in beautiful warm sunshine!

And so as I was climbing our first climb, Excellent Smithers (YDS rating of 5.8)…I felt the most comfortable and at home on the crimpy crux moves…I started to feel elated…immediately filled with the sense of wanting to be on the sharp end (with the rope only below me, not above me). Wow!

We moved on, climbed another route or two, and then headed over to another wall at the crag. A very popular ‘wall’. Joe’s Garage. It’s not as sunny, and actually cool at the base, but still beautiful for climbing as you warmed up as you climbed higher. The climb is called ‘Sticky Fingers’ (YDS rating of 5.10b)


I felt really good as I tied in to top-rope this climb. I’d never climbed it before…and watching Dom lead it, I loved the movement on the rock.


Well the route was NOT a disappointment, and it was the climbing and movement on this route that insighted my introductory paragraph of this blog post….will I really, some day be able to call myself a 5.10 trad climber?   I felt totally at ease on this route…with moments of feeling…I could lead this…wow! what had come over me!?

Have you ever had that ‘aha’ moment where things just seem to click for you!? and the clouds seem to lift and everything seems obvious?!


5 comments on “will I be a 5.10 trad climber?

  1. Gear is good on it. You definitely have what it takes to lead it!

  2. You’ll definitely be a 5.10 trad climber Stacy 🙂

    I haven’t climbed Sticky Fingers in years. I’ll have to get on it this spring and see if it’s something that I could also lead someday.

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